My first two weeks as a volunteer...

...have been challenging yet fun!  Our group of 23 volunteers arrived from the world of air conditioning to the Barranquilla sauna on October 13 and were immediately whisked via bus to a hotel where we were-- trained!  We met the Country Director, George Baldino, a very kind and humble man who was reportedly once a monk!  Three days later we moved in with our host families.  My host family consists of two ladies who are cousins and another couple who live in the bedroom next to me but I rarely see.  Their presence is still somewhat of a mystery.  The ladies, though, are both super chill, and my "mom" is adorable.  She greets me each morning with coffee, juice, and a "Buenos dias, mi vida."  Although I told her I don't eat breakfast she still regularly asks if I want anything.  Both women are perplexed at what they consider the little amount of food I eat, yet my plate is heaping with up to three times what they themselves are eating.  I've tried showing my cultural diplomacy by cleaning my plate, but it's impossible.  My eating also seems to be a phenomenon- they and their visitors have hovered over me to witness the act; I feel like a specimen in "Watch the American Eat." Now, I just take food from my plate and load theirs up and slowly my portion sizes are decreasing.  Success!  Here's one of her typical meals- chicken and veggies (veggies because I've pleaded for them), sopa de something, rice, french fries, and juice!  Juice, juice, at every meal.

I'm very happy about the availability of fresh fish!

So, after moving in with our host families, we have been-- training!  I take about an hour bus ride to an ESL school where we have Spanish classes for four hours in the morning and technical and program training in the afternoon.  I'm happy to say that I've been advanced to a higher level of Spanish than they originally placed me in, and I'm truly enjoying learning the language, especially the costeño slang.  For example, the insult for an ugly woman is "culo de bofe!"  Bofe being cooked cow lungs that is a local dish and culo de... well.  I doubt I'll ever use the expression, but it's funny to learn nonetheless.  The accent is difficult to pick up on because they cut off their words and rarely pronounce their d's, s's, and p's.  This is odd to me because the coastal people are very relaxed, reportedly showing up hours late for meetings, yet they all seem to be in a big hurry.  The cars WILL run people over in the streets.  Anyhow, in the afternoons we review ESL teaching strategies, safety and security measures, and health safeguards.  This training continues until January 13 where we will then move to our assignments for the next two years.  Fortunately, I get to go to Santa Marta for my site observation this week, which I'm uber-thrilled about.  I'll be observing a volunteer who's teaching at an all girls' school run by nuns near a beautiful beach.  I'm crossing fingers this will be my final placement.  I like all girls!!  I like beach!!

Really, I haven't experienced much of Colombia yet because of the grueling training schedule, but I did go to an English conversation club hosted by some other volunteers at La Cueva, the bar where Gabriel García Marquez wrote much of One Hundred Years of Solitude.  This glass of wine cost me a day's wages, but it was worth it!

We also split into small groups last week and made our first school visits for national bilingualism week.  That is why we're here- to help with President Juan Manuel Santos's mission to have all Colombian schools bilingual by 2019.  Our project director exhibited the typical Latin American positive tact by saying, "This is a big goal." Translated- it's unlikely to happen.  Many of the English teachers don't speak English!  I'll write more on this mission later.  Anyhow, my group and I visited a girls' school where we were greeted with drums and a dance mix of Colombian cumbia and the American mashed potato.  The visit ended with 30 minutes of "Watch the Americans Dance" begun by the whitest guy in our group trying to dance salsa with a local teacher.  The girls were mad with delight.  I was quite elated myself.

I have changed in some big ways so far as a result of this experience.  Such as:

• I use pea-sized amounts of toothpaste, shampoo, etc. and buy the absolute cheapest products available. Our allowance is scanty, so I have to pinch every peso.  And really, it's not necessary to use more than is needed anyhow, right?
• A/C and hot water are non-existent here.  The lack of A/C was quite shocking at first given the heat of Barranquilla, yet I've somehow managed to live just fine.  My two cold showers and nightly fan treatment have become small pleasures.
• Put washer and dryer on the 86 list, too.  I don't wash my clothes until they reek.
• I carry my backpack as a frontpack and watch my back- literally. Theft is very common here.  Few people talk on cell phones or listen to their iPods in public because it's likely they will be stolen.  As the local expression goes- "No da papaya."  I think that translates to "don't give them a reason to rob you."

Living with my host family has thus far been my most rewarding experience.  My host mom's hospitality and gusto are daily inspirations to be happy for the people you have in life.  And as she genuflects and prays over me as I leave each day, I leave you friends with a prayer, too.  

May I be peaceful, happy and light in body and spirit.
May you be peaceful, happy, and light in body and spirit.
May the world be peaceful, happy, and light in body and spirit.

-Thich Nhat Hanh

Post about Santa Marta experience coming soon!

Bendiciones amigos!